If the creation of the desired interior involves painting the walls, then you need to start with painstaking surface preparation. In new buildings, a smaller amount of work has to be done, but it will still not be possible to avoid primary processing. There are many nuances that you should be aware of before you start preparing the walls for painting.
For secondary repairs, it is recommended to start with the complete removal of old coatings. It is required to completely remove previous layers of paint, whitewash or plaster from the wall. In older houses, especially if the repair has been going on for several decades, you need to remove all the putty to the concrete base. In buildings that involve internal floors of wooden crates (shingles), the condition of the wood and filler should be examined. The most reasonable solution to prepare structures for further processing and painting would be to replace old internal partitions or strengthen the walls with a building reinforcing mesh with putty.
Paper wallpapers are removed after soaking them in water. Vinyl options and “washable” modifications require a different approach: before work, it is necessary to break the surface into sections, make several notches on working surface, thus providing water access to the inner layer and glue. In case of unsuccessful attempts, professionals recommend preparing a solution with a small amount of detergent or adding cellulose glue. This composition will allow the liquid to expand the pores of the coatings and facilitate their removal. Resourceful craftsmen advise removing wallpaper with a simple steamer, considering this method to be quite effective.
Old oil paint will be easier to remove by applying a weak solution of sodium carbonate (you can use regular soda). To quickly remove the water emulsion, you will need diluted acid - you need to add a teaspoon of lemon food per liter of water.
When the finishing layers of the finish are removed, it is worth degreasing the walls by washing them with water and ordinary detergent. This preparation will ensure that subsequent operations are carried out smoothly.
If, as a result of pre-treatment, traces of rust appeared on the surface of the wall, then during painting they may remain noticeable. Masters are ready to offer several recipes that allow you to quickly cope with an unpleasant surprise:
- - 10% copper sulphate will perfectly cope with the task;
- - especially persistent spots can be masked: apply a primer for metal on them or glue pieces of cardboard on small spots, and putty the walls on top;
- - fatty weak traces can be treated with 5-10% soda ash.
The fight against mold should only be radical: the use of antiseptics and the removal of all affected layers.
Priming and leveling walls, choosing tools for painting
To make perfectly even walls is possible not only for a professional, but also for an amateur who takes his work responsibly. The primer is performed twice: as a mandatory surface preparation before applying plaster to the walls, and also after sanding the finishing putty before proceeding with painting. This intermediate finishing material fills the pores and provides more even layers of decorative coating. The primer is applied with a brush or roller on a long handle. Some craftsmen believe that it is rational to use an airbrush for processing walls and ceilings.
For further work you will need. It is advisable to purchase them ready-made, since self-preparation is more laborious and does not exclude errors. The leveling of walls by applying layers of plaster to the surface with a spatula and further processing with the correct plane remains the most common. The final coating is laid in several stages and polished. Next, the walls are primed and dry for 5 hours. In the case, fewer layers of plaster will be required.
- - the primer before painting will be more effective if it is made with a mixture of paint and soil in a ratio of 1: 1;
- - the acrylic composition is universal: such a primer is suitable for almost any subsequent coating. But for water-soluble paints, it is better to choose a primer of an identical composition;
- - before work, you need to carefully remove chalk residues and fine particles from the walls.
The technological process involves the application of 3 or 4 layers of putty. Since almost all internal planes in old houses have significant defects, plastering for painting remains relevant. In order for the work to be done perfectly, experts recommend using the installation of "beacons":
- - determine the curvature of the wall, hammer nails to the desired height;
- - on the protruding caps, strengthen the pyramids from the solution;
- - after solidification of the main layer, an additional fraction of the solution is thrown and leveled by the rule based on the "beacons".
In order to make the corners ideal, a little gypsum is added to the solution.
Also, professionals pay special attention to such an important matter as preparing the necessary tools that will be needed for applying paint - only with a responsible approach to the event, the result will be perfect. The basic list includes:
- - rollers different types: traditional foam, delicate velor, leaving an original trace of fur. Also, when applying decorative patterns to the main painting, textured copies will come in handy. This option is suitable for perfectly flat shaped surfaces;
- - a compressor, an airbrush can determine an amazing result, but only if there are certain skills in working with them;
- - various brushes: for water emulsion it is better to take synthetics that will not get wet and will not lose elasticity, for oil or alkyd paint, natural bristles will be an ideal choice. Mixed options - a combination of natural fibers with artificial ones - are considered universal.
And in order for the painting to be of the highest quality and effective, it is worth taking care of the microclimate: the room should be from 5 to 25 ° C heat.
The visual perception of a room often depends on the color in which it is painted. Light colors tend to make rooms more spacious, while dark and bright colors reduce the volume. A separate surface can be painted in a different color from the rest, which can also change the spatial perception. The combination of surface texture and color shades can create a variety of impact nervous system effects that can be selected to create the desired mood. In addition, staining is an inexpensive and uncomplicated design method.
How to prepare surfaces for painting?
After preparation, you can proceed to the final painting. Finishing surfaces in this way has certain advantages, because. if repairs are needed, they can be done quickly and with a minimum of financial costs. Paint creates any color combinations, drawings and collages. In addition, the painted surface breathes, which means that the microclimate and humidity of the room will be optimal.
If the surfaces to be painted are clean, then it is enough to level the walls for painting.
If previous coatings are available, they are removed before painting, using, if not possible, mechanical cleaning, various means:
- oil paint can be washed off with an alkaline solution (for example, soda 5%);
- the water-based composition is removed with a sponge dipped in a slightly acidic solution;
- water-dispersion paint is smeared with wallpaper glue and newspapers are glued, which (after drying) are removed along with the paint;
- adhesive compositions are eliminated by treatment with hydrochloric acid (2%);
- rust is removed using copper sulfate (10% solution);
- the wall is washed from fat with 5% soda ash;
- mold is removed with fungicides.
Preparation of brick and concrete bases
Preparing the walls for painting may well be done on your own if the house is brick or concrete. Selected tools:
- sandpaper with a grain of 60 and 120;
- spatula (40-45 cm long);
- construction level;
- brush;
- roller
Materials:
- kapron frame mesh;
- starting putty (for example, "Veniton LR +") in dry form;
- finishing putty (for example, "Maxi Dulux");
- deep penetration primer.
Doing work:
- All existing residues of previous coatings, stains and dirt are carefully removed from the surfaces.
- The surfaces to be painted are treated with coarse-grained sandpaper, achieving the greatest possible smoothness, then they are washed with water and dried.
- To equalize differences up to 2 cm, apply, for deep saturation, a diluted primer solution, working with a brush.
- After soaking, the surface is primed 2 more times, using undiluted primer, taking breaks (5 hours) to dry the layers. During the day, completely dry all applied primer layers.
- Irregularities are closed (checked with a vertical level), producing a starting putty. With a spatula, a thin layer of putty is applied to the surface (to the width of the grid), a grid is laid on top, which is covered with the next layer of putty.
- The second overlapping mesh strip (10 cm) is laid on top of the first one and the procedure is repeated until the entire surface is processed. The walls are left to dry for a day.
- The remaining irregularities (up to 0.3 mm) are smoothed out by rubbing with fine sandpaper.
- The final (1-2 mm) layer of putty is applied and dried (days). From above, they are again treated with a deeply penetrating primer, leaving to dry (24 hours).
Other finishes
Wall surfaces can be pasted over for painting with wallpaper: non-woven, paper, glass. Cullets made of glass fibers are treated with an impregnation that makes them fireproof. Paint such a coating with water-dispersion paints. Self-pasting glass walls for painting is possible. Tools are being prepared:
- metal brush;
- putty knife;
- brush;
- roller;
- scissors.
Materials:
- cullet;
- primer;
- putty;
- dispersion adhesive.
Work:
- Cleans the walls building materials and dirt.
- The dry surface is primed, dried, then small cracks and recesses are sealed with putty.
- The wallpaper is cut into strips, adding 10 cm to the desired length.
- Apply glue to a dry surface under a strip of wallpaper with a roller.
- Starting from the corner, strips of wallpaper are placed on the walls, making them tightly adjacent to each other. Air bubbles are squeezed out with a spatula.
After the wallpaper has dried (24 hours), they can be covered with paint.
Finishing walls with drywall before painting takes a little time. Needed tools:
- sandpaper;
- Master OK;
- roller;
- brushes.
Materials:
- primer corresponding to the type of paint;
- putty (for example, "Veniton LR +");
- sickle;
- glue.
Work:
- The seams between the drywall sheets are cleaned with sandpaper.
- Stick strips of sickle on the seams using PVA glue.
- After drying, the seams are primed.
- 5 hours after the primer has dried, the joints are puttyed and then dried.
- The entire surface intended for painting is primed.
- After drying, if irregularities are found, the putty and primer are repeated.
Now the dried walls are ready for painting.
Before painting any wall surfaces, their preliminary thorough finishing is necessary, because paint can only be applied to a flat base. Alignment is a painstaking procedure, since obtaining a smooth wall requires accuracy and adherence to the technology of the work being done. It is worth immediately monitoring the result of each stage so as not to make alterations. Then the painting of the wall surfaces will happen quickly, and any paint will lay down evenly, embodying the intended design.
The walls in the living room can be decorated different ways, for example, using decorative plaster, wallpaper, painting, MDF panels. Paneling perfectly hides various flaws. Traditional wallpapering also perfectly masks small defects on the surface. For each of these options, preliminary preparation is mandatory.
Wall painting is a popular, but specific type of finish that requires the most thorough surface preparation, because after applying a layer of paint, any irregularities will become visible. In addition, most modern facing materials suggest the possibility of painting, which allows you to refresh the interior of the apartment without spending a lot of money on repairs. Having a minimum list of materials and tools, you can prepare the walls for painting with your own hands.
It is very important to properly prepare the surfaces for painting - after all, the final result depends not only on the quality of the materials, but on the exact observance of the technology.
Types of work surfaces
The material and texture of the walls that are suitable for painting are varied. For modern interiors, the following types of surfaces are most characteristic:
- smooth, plastered surface;
- relief decorative plaster;
- textured plaster;
- natural wood flooring;
- smooth surface coated with panels, wallpaper, tiles.
Starting to prepare the walls for painting (especially if you are doing repairs yourself), you should take into account the characteristics of the surface types, because the preparatory processes for walls made of different materials can vary significantly.
As a rule, such preparation usually consists of the following steps:
- careful alignment of the wall;
- filling irregularities with putty;
- cleaning from dust, coating with a primer layer.
Finishing for painting wooden walls
During preparation for painting wooden surfaces, the features of this material should be taken into account.
The preparation algorithm includes:
After complete drying, the surface is ready for painting.
During the preparation of walls with textured surfaces for painting, it is only necessary to apply a layer of a special primer (deep penetration), since the relief material does not need to be sanded and leveled.
Wallpapers that are suitable for painting do not need special treatment, it is enough to cover them with a thin layer of glue or adhesive primer.
Wall preparation technology
There is a standard procedure for preparing walls for painting, which includes several steps:
1. Removal of the previous coating (a layer of old paint or wallpaper), cleaning from dirt and dust, stains, mold. If the walls were previously covered with water-based paint, it can be washed off with a sponge, but a layer of enamel or oil paint must be cleaned off with a spatula.
2. Leveling the surface of the walls before painting can be performed:
- with the help of plastering;
- drywall sheets;
- grinding.
Wall plastering is necessary if the surface has many irregularities and cracks. If the old layer is in good condition, then you can only redo some areas, and not replace it completely. Such a conclusion can only be made by first verifying the strength of the plaster with the help of tapping - if there are no voids anywhere that respond to the knock with a booming sound, the layer is strong. But, of course, it is best to make a new coating, since the old plaster layer may begin to peel off the wall over time.
To simplify your task when plastering, it is better to use special beacons.
Plasterboard sheathing allows for a short time create a perfectly flat wall surface.
Grinding is only suitable for solid walls that do not have depressions (more than 3 mm deep) or protrusions on the surface. Before sanding, the previous coating must be removed from the wall. For work, you can use sandpaper. Do not forget that during the grinding of the walls there is a lot of dust in the air, so be sure to wear safety glasses, as well as an aspirator or a protective mask.
3. After the surface is leveled, it is necessary to apply a primer layer (to improve the adhesive and performance properties of the coating).
4. Puttying the walls is a mandatory stage of work, because almost all types of coatings are unsuitable for painting without first applying a layer of putty. If this stage is neglected, the paint will lie unevenly, ugly stains will remain on the surface. Puttying the plastered surface will help smooth out small bumps and roughness, as well as hide small cracks. If the walls are finished with drywall sheets, putty is used to seal the joints.
5. Priming before painting reduces the porosity of the top layer of the material and ensures excellent adhesion of the paint to the surface of the walls (the primer is usually applied with a spray gun, fur roller or a wide square brush).
6. Wall painting.
Features of wall putty
To putty walls before subsequent painting, it is necessary to use two types of putty - starting (base) and finishing.
The base is designed to align noticeable defects. Due to its dense grainy texture, it fills deep depressions and cracks well. After the first layer of putty has dried, it is sanded with a special mesh, achieving a smooth surface. Then a layer of finishing putty is applied, which will smooth out small roughnesses and help remove excessive graininess of the walls. Due to its texture, it provides a smooth surface, ideal for painting. The puttied surface has a high density, therefore it does not absorb paint and helps to reduce the consumption of paints and varnishes.
Surface cleaning and priming before painting
When all preliminary work is completed, and the surface is as ready as possible for painting, it should be thoroughly cleaned of building dust and small particles (with a vacuum cleaner, soft brush or dry rag) and only then covered with a primer layer. The primer can be applied with a roller, sprayer or brush.
Primer treatment, in addition to better adhesion, provides a more even application of paint and uniformity of color over the entire surface. You need to select a primer in accordance with the type of paint used, however, an acrylic primer is a universal option, it can be used under almost all types of paint (except oil). Some types of primer have antibacterial properties, so they protect the walls from mold. Please note that painting the walls is possible only after the primer has completely dried (not earlier than after 5-6 hours).
The main types of wall paints
When determining the order of preparatory work, it is necessary to take into account the features of the material with which the room will be decorated. The painting process is simple, and it is quite possible to do it yourself, even without experience. At the moment, water-dispersion paints are very popular, which are suitable for internal works. They easily and evenly lay down on almost any surface, do not spread, dry quickly. Walls covered with such paints are not affected by mold, and the optimum level of humidity is always maintained in the room.
Depending on the components of the composition, water-dispersion paints can be divided into: 
- latex- they are distinguished by an even dense coating, elasticity and complete water resistance (thanks to the latex rubbers included in the composition). The surface painted with such paint is resistant to various contaminants, it can be washed not only with water, but also with aggressive cleaning agents. The disadvantage of this type of paint is the high price and rapid fading under prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, so it is recommended to use it only indoors.
- Acrylic. The main component of the composition is acrylic resins. Such paints are durable, high resistance, vapor permeability, long service life. They are used for painting plastered surfaces: concrete, gypsum, wood, brick, metal, as well as walls covered with wallpaper. Suitable for both indoor and outdoor work. The surface covered with such paint can be washed, it does not lose its color brightness under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Acrylic water-based paint is the most popular representative of this type of coloring compositions.
- Vinyl- contain polyvinyl acetate, are intended for decorating dry rooms, are not used for outdoor work. The walls covered with vinyl paints look very beautiful. Another advantage of this type of finish is the low price.
- Paints with a combined composition have mixed characteristics and are suitable for wall decoration in rooms with adverse conditions.
- Latex-acrylic paints are durable, beautiful appearance, waterproof and easy to maintain.
Of course, preparing for painting takes quite a lot of time, but if you are careful and do everything right, the result in the form of beautiful walls will please you for a long time.
Before you start painting the walls, you should prepare their surface for this operation. Their result directly depends on the thoroughness and quality of the preparatory work. After painting, everything, even small defects, on the surface of the wall will be clearly visible.
That is why the importance of preparatory work is so great. Inept or illiterate work on preparing the surface for painting in the future will lead to the fact that everything will have to be redone.
In contact with
It is easier to work with a freshly plastered wall. In fact, most of the work has already been done. You just need to putty and clean the surface with sandpaper. Before proceeding with the painting itself, the walls are washed, and after drying they are primed, choosing a special primer for this, depending on the type of paint.
It is more difficult to work when the walls are covered with old finishes. It must be removed, and then leveled, dried and primed.
How to remove old paint from walls
First you need to determine what type of paint covers the wall. It is not difficult. Take sandpaper and rub the wall with it. Paints made with water based, will remain on the abrasive. Alkyd and oil paints are easily removed from sandpaper with a simple shake.
Prepare a spatula, coarse sandpaper and a metal brush. Carefully remove all old paint from the wall. Next, putty the surface with a thin layer and treat with a primer.
For water-based paints, we select water-based primers as well. Universal primers based on acrylic binders are well suited. For enamels take an alkyd primer.
To easily remove oil paint from the wall, the surface is washed with a 5% soda solution. Water-dispersion paints are removed with wallpaper glue and old newspapers. They coat the walls with glue and stick newspapers. Next, wait until the glue is completely dry. And then get the result - the paint can be easily removed along with the newspapers. If the paint was made on an adhesive basis, then it can be removed with a 2% hydrochloric acid solution. The surface of the wall is covered with bubbles and is well washed off. After removing the paint, the walls are washed, dried and sanded.
Often old wallpaper can be easily removed from the wall. If this does not happen, use a spatula. When the wallpaper is firmly attached to the surface, treat it with wallpaper remover. Everything is simple here. It is only important to strictly follow the instructions for use of this liquid.
We fight grease stains, mold and rust
All that in the future (grease, mold, rust) may show through fresh paint should be completely removed. Mold is well removed with fungicides. Grease stains are washed off with water with the addition of soda. Rust should be thoroughly washed off with water, and then this place on the wall is treated with copper sulphate. A solution of vitriol is prepared as follows: one hundred grams of vitriol per liter of boiling water.
How to make a brick brazier for a summer residence or a suburban area can be found in.
When working with various, including chemical compounds strictly follow the safety precautions. Be sure to use rubber gloves, and if necessary, goggles, choose comfortable clothes for work, preferably cotton. Headwear is required.
Wallpaper removed, spots removed. Now let's level the surface of the walls. If the wall is slightly uneven, use gypsum plaster to smooth it out. Barely noticeable roughness is removed using gypsum putty. Just pre-treat the surface with a universal primer. Thus, you will ensure the desired adhesion of the gypsum putty. The primer of the surface should be done with a roller, where it would be inconvenient to work with a roller, use a brush or sponge. Take your time.
The soil composition dries at room temperature for about a day. When you finish puttying the walls, bring them to perfect evenness with the help of the finest sandpaper. You have now reached the final stage. To securely fix the putty, it is coated with a universal primer.
Some save on priming, considering this operation a waste of both money and time. We consider this approach unprofessional. Priming, in fact, in addition to the excellent quality of the work performed, can significantly reduce paint consumption.
If during the preparation of the walls for painting, the plaster under your hands constantly crumbles or falls off in pieces, then think about whether it is worth painting such a wall. Wouldn't it be better to re-plaster the walls?
- Types of surfaces to be painted
- Removing old wallpapers
- Removing old paint
- Removal of rust, mold and grease stains
- Wall alignment
- Applying the starting putty
- Application of finishing putty
- Preparation of other surfaces for painting
Today, wall painting is a worthy alternative to any type of finishing and therefore is very popular. The most difficult stage in the implementation of any finishing work is the preparatory work.
And finishing the walls for painting is the most difficult task. The requirements for it are very high. Only perfect preparation will achieve the perfect quality of the painted surface.
Types of surfaces to be painted
Can be dyed different types surfaces. Conventionally, they can be divided as follows:
- smooth putty surface;
- textured surface;
- smooth surface of the facing material (wood, tile, wallpaper, plastic);
- relief surface of facing materials.
For each case, there is a technology for preparing walls for painting. But the most complete process of preparing the surface for painting is leveling and filling the surface. Consider what stages of surface preparation you need to go through in order to start painting it.
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Removing old wallpapers
Tools:
- a bucket of warm water;
- roller or sponge;
- putty knife;
- medium grit sandpaper.
Removing old wallpaper is sometimes not an easy task. But it needs to be done. To facilitate this work, the wallpaper must be moistened with plenty of warm water, sometimes more than once, using a sponge or roller. When the wallpaper is well saturated with water, it will become malleable for removal. First remove large parts of the wallpaper, and then remove the remaining small pieces with a spatula.
Sometimes it happens that the wallpaper is glued so strongly that it can be removed with pieces of plaster. This is not scary, since the surface for painting will be carefully putty in the future.
At the end, treat the walls well with sandpaper or a grater.
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Removing old paint
Tools:
- sandpaper with coarse grain;
- metal brush;
- putty knife.
First of all, you need to determine what type of paint is applied to the wall. Rub the wall with sandpaper. If the paint remains on the abrasive, then it is a water-based paint. If the paint is easily removed from the abrasive by light shaking, then it is alkyd or oil.
Wall paint must be removed carefully. To remove oil paint, the walls must be treated with a 5% soda solution. And to easily cope with water-dispersion paint, use wallpaper paste and old newspapers. The walls need to be smeared with glue and glued with newspapers. When the glue is completely dry, the paint will be easily removed along with the newspapers. The method for removing adhesive-based paint is to apply a 2% hydrochloric acid solution to it. The wall will blister and the paint can be easily washed off.
When the paint is completely removed from the walls, they need to be washed well, dried and sanded.
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Removal of rust, mold and grease stains
Grease, rust or mildew stains can easily show through on a painted surface. Therefore, even at the stage of preparing the surface for painting, you need to get rid of them. Mold can be removed by treating affected areas with fungicides. Grease stains are removed with a solution of soda. Rust is washed off with water, and then this place is treated with a solution of copper sulphate (100 g of vitriol per 1 liter of boiling water).
Working with chemicals follow safety precautions. Wear rubber gloves and goggles. Choose comfortable clothes for work and put on a hat.
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Wall alignment
The technology of preparing any surface for painting is aimed at eliminating all irregularities. This can be achieved in several ways:
- grinding of the existing coating;
- wall decoration with plasterboard;
- plaster and putty.
Surface grinding is suitable for a concrete surface when it is solid, sound and undamaged. To do this, it is enough to remove a thin layer of plaster using a grinder. Old coatings are subject to mandatory treatment with antiseptics and priming. All minor damage and areas with mold are cleaned and puttied. The difference in level should be no more than 2 mm. When this result is achieved, you can start filling the walls for painting.
A complete replacement of the plaster is required when there are significant differences in level and exfoliated areas. Also for this case, drywall finishing is suitable. It all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities.
Finished smooth plastered walls must be carefully primed and left to dry completely. Proceeding to the next stage with wet walls is not recommended.
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Applying the starting putty
Materials and tools for applying putty:
- starting and finishing putties;
- a bucket for preparing the mixture;
- drill with mixer;
- wide and small spatula (60-80 and 20-25 cm);
- trowel for leveling putty;
- rule;
- reinforcing nylon mesh;
- abrasive mesh of different grain sizes and a grater.
According to the technology, painting directly on cement-sand plaster is not recommended, since its surface is very porous and strongly absorbs moisture. Therefore, the paint on it will not lie evenly and the color may change. Any surface roughness will also be visible. To prevent this from happening, putty must be applied to the surface of the wall.
The first layer of putty is made with a starting putty, which allows you to apply a layer of up to 5 mm. The putty must be diluted in accordance with the instructions indicated on the package. This must be done immediately before applying to the walls. The ready-to-use putty solution in the bucket must also be opened immediately before use.
Puttying for painting is recommended using a reinforcing mesh, the cell size of which is 2 mm. To do this, you need to apply a layer of putty 2-3 mm thick on the wall, attach a mesh to it and press it well with a spatula. When this layer is dry, apply another layer of starter putty.
Very often, novice masters make mistakes, trying to achieve the most even surface from the very first layer and smooth out all the protruding stripes remaining from the edges of the spatula. It is not necessary to do this at all. In this case, the main thing is that there are no strong recesses and there are no unfilled areas left. It is enough to run the spatula 1-2 times along the transitions between the strips, and sand the remaining irregularities after drying. The solution should not be applied in too small portions, since in this case large irregularities cannot be avoided. With the accumulation of experience, such shortcomings will be minimal.
After applying the starting layer of putty, it needs to be allowed to dry for 6-8 hours. Then you can start grinding the surface with an abrasive mesh size 120. In this way, all rough surface irregularities are removed. At the end, the walls need to be primed and allowed to dry.
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