Planting violets is carried out using seeds, cuttings, leaves, seedlings. The choice of method depends on the season, temperature and humidity in the room. Before planting violets, it is necessary to prepare the soil, pots, fertilizers and drainage. Planting can be done at any time of the year - the best periods are spring and summer.
Ways to plant violets
You can plant indoor violets using:
- seeds;
- roots;
- leaves;
- shoots, peduncles.
The use of material from an adult plant allows you to save money on the purchase of seeds and save damaged bushes of rare varieties.
Root planting
For propagation of violets by a process with a root system and leaves, it is necessary to prepare planting material. Cuttings with roots and 2-4 leaves are required; necessarily the presence of a developing point of growth.
Before you properly plant a violet with a root, it is necessary to provide a suitable microclimate in the room. Plants develop with at least 12 hours of daylight. In winter, the organization of illumination with the help of phytolamps or fluorescent lamps is mandatory. It is important to maintain a temperature of + 24 ... + 27 ° С.
Variants with unbranched roots require growing; the process is placed in a container with moss or perlite, covered with a cloth. The formed seedling is transferred to the soil. It is necessary to withstand a plant grown from a leaf at home in a greenhouse for about 2 weeks, regularly airing it. After the bush reaches 1.5-2 diameters of the pot, it is transplanted into a stationary container.
Planting from a leaf with a root
To propagate violets with a leaf with a root system, it is necessary to prepare a cutting from an adult plant. Planting material is selected from 2-3 tiers from well-formed young rosettes. Part of the sheet up to 4-5 cm is cut at an acute angle, disinfected with copper sulphate, saline or soapy water.
A container for breeding violets from a leaflet must be clean and sterilized. Glasses or flasks made of tinted glass are recommended.
In a container with water (settled or boiled), the roots are germinated. Part of the leaf should be in the water at a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The material grown for seedlings is located in a place with average illumination.
If the planting material is damaged, it is necessary to cut off parts of the leaf by 1.5 cm. It is allowed to trim the material before the formation of roots 2-3 times. A change of water is required after the procedure.
To accelerate root growth, stimulating additives can be added to the vessel with the leaf. The material is located in an aqueous solution until small roots appear for 2-4 weeks.
A plant that has given roots needs a compact container. Planting material is placed in the soil at an average depth. The lateral roots should be deepened by 2 cm. Watering for rooting violets is carried out with warm water (+35 ° C).
For 7-14 days, seedlings must be placed under covering material or glass to create a greenhouse effect. It is important to perform daily ventilation. After rooting, flower care is carried out in the standard mode. Transplantation into a large container is performed after increasing the volume of leaves several times.
Planting leaves without roots
It is possible to plant violets with a leaf without roots. The procedure is performed with a small amount of planting raw materials and for rare types of saintpaulias. Requires a cutting and part of a leaf with at least 1 vein. The material is dried, sprinkled with crushed coal.
For planting, part of the leaf is tightly placed in the ground in compact pots or plastic glasses with openings for the outflow of water. It is necessary to supplement the container with drainage by 1/3; the remaining volume is filled with soil.
It is not recommended to place planting material deep, because. sprouts will not be able to rise to the surface. The earth next to the handle is tamped, watered, the pot is covered with polyethylene or glass to maintain the microclimate and maintain the required level of humidity. After the appearance of shoots, young plants are distributed in permanent pots.
The best option is to plant part of the plant in sphagnum, which has water-retaining and disinfecting characteristics. Breeding violets from part of the leaf allows you to form more shoots than with other methods.
Planting offshoot
Cultivation of Saintpaulia by stepchildren or peduncles is carried out to maximize the preservation of the characteristics of the variety (intensity of shade, size, shape of leaves and flowers).
It is necessary to separate the side rosettes (stepchildren) formed around the main stem of the bush. The material is placed in a small container with soil, regularly watered. After growth, a bulky bush is transplanted into an appropriately sized pot.
For breeding Saintpaulia with peduncles, several hybrid varieties are used (chimera violets, etc.). It is necessary to separate the peduncle that has faded or recently opened. Closed buds are not used for breeding Saintpaulia.
Disinfected with a knife or blade, it is necessary to cut off the peduncle and stipules. The material is placed in sphagnum; a greenhouse grid is created above the plant. After the appearance of a new outlet and rooting, the plant moves to a stationary container. It is recommended to immediately add superphosphate fertilizer for the development of the bush and the organization of abundant flowering.
How to choose the right soil
Before you take a shoot of violet and plant it, you need to choose the optimal soil. The soil is required loose, moisture-intensive, with good breathability, slightly acidic, non-greasy. Garden soil is not recommended due to its high density and the risk of infestation by pests.
Beginning growers can purchase specialized soil from the horticultural department. However, to create good conditions for breeding Saintpaulia, you can choose the composition of the ingredients yourself.
Popular combination:
- soddy soil;
- humus from leaves;
- sphagnum moss;
- clean river sand.
The soil for adult plants should be more (than for young plants) saturated with fertilizers for long-term flowering and rosette growth. For sprouts and cuttings, the air permeability of the soil mixture is important.
The optimal variant of loose soil contains 5 liters of soil mixture, 0.5 liters of perlite, sphagnum, biohumus, vermiculite each. It is necessary to lay a layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot. It is possible to add sand to the tank.
Rich in nutrients, a combination of peat or coconut fibers and biological humus is obtained. Perlite is used as a baking powder.
When using standard peat soil, regular fertilization of violets is required.
Requirements for the pot
Before planting violets in a pot, it is necessary to correctly determine the dimensions and material of the container.
According to the standards, a planter with a diameter 3 times smaller than a violet rosette is optimal. If the dimensions of the pot do not correspond to the proportions of the bush, there may be no flowering. In a container large for a variety, the soil will oxidize due to the lack of root feeding.
The height of the pots should be up to 10 cm, because. the root system of Saintpaulia is shallow. For regular flowering, the roots should fill the pots tightly.
Miniature species are grown in containers with a diameter of 4 cm. Standard varieties are planted in pots 5-9 cm in diameter. Adult bushes are placed in tubs 9-11 cm.
For breeding Saintpaulia pots are used from:
- peat humus raw materials;
- plastic (thin, dense);
- clay, ceramics.
For planting Saintpaulia cuttings, peat-mush compact containers or plastic glasses are optimal.
Pots made of dense polymer raw materials are practical, budgetary, have a small mass, and are distinguished by a wide range of textures and shades. Plastic containers do not require complex care and disinfection. Decorative characteristics of products are average.
Ceramic pots are aesthetic, durable, allow air and moisture to pass through, ensuring the stable development of the plant's root system, and preventing rotting of sprouts. However, the products are massive, high price, not recommended for glass and plastic shelving. It is necessary to take into account the rapid drying of the soil in clay containers and provide frequent watering. Ceramic products are durable, however, after transplantation, it is necessary to disinfect the containers.
The bottoms of pots for saintpaulias should have holes of at least 2-3 mm. The tubs are complemented by trays to collect water and prevent fungal plant diseases.
Landing step by step instructions
Beginning flower growers need to determine the order of stages for planting violets. To root a young plant or plant a large bush (performed once every 6-9 months), it is required to determine the size of the pot. When planting a new shoot, the ratio of the diameter of the container and the outlet is 1: 3. A pot that is reused needs to be disinfected.
A layer of up to 1/4 of the drainage composition is poured into the container, covered with a layer of sand prepared with soil for Saintpaulia. The plant is then placed in a pot. Soil is gradually added to the container, distributed between the roots and compacted. The plant must be watered abundantly.
The adaptation period for Saintpaulia takes about 14 days. The temperature regime during this period is maintained at +24°C. When breeding small sprouts, the organization of a greenhouse from a covering material is required.
When planting a bush, it is recommended not to allow the plant to fall under the direct rays of the sun. Not suitable for Saintpaulia sprouts and dry indoor air. It is considered a mistake to place the plant in dense soil and excessive deepening of the roots that have appeared.
Before planting violets correctly, it is important to take into account the microclimate of the room. After the rooting of the seedling, the temperature can be maintained at + 22 ... + 24 ° С. Young plants require abundant soil moisture and the addition of perlite to prevent damage to the root system.
When breeding Saintpaulia, the humidity level in the room is maintained at 50-60%; for growing adult bushes, it is enough to maintain 50% humidity.
Are fertilizers needed?
Grown violet from a leaf must be fed to form rosettes, create lush ovaries of buds.
Fertilization of young plants is carried out 1 time in 7 days. During the flowering period, top dressing is added to the pot 1 time in 14 days. During the dormant period (late autumn, winter), superphosphate fertilizer is carried out monthly. Useful substances are introduced during irrigation dissolved in water.
When planting an adult plant, experts do not recommend feeding for 1 week, because. the new soil mix has the necessary nutrients.
During the period of bud formation, the violet needs top dressing with complex fertilizers ("Uniflor-buton", etc.). After flowering is completed, the plant is fertilized with Uniflor-growth or with universal compounds Etisso, AVA, Schultz.
When placing plants on racks, it is required to provide a larger amount of top dressing and organize lighting. Subject to the temperature regime and air humidity, the bushes grow rapidly and require transplantation.
Can violets be planted outside in summer
Saintpaulia - indoor flower. But in summer, violets can be moved to open ground.
It should be borne in mind that not all varieties of plants are suitable for planting in a suburban area. Many varieties are sensitive to drafts, low temperatures, direct sunlight.
You can transfer garden violet (Viola) to the street. The variety has special subspecies (annual, perennial) that can be planted in open soil. Planting is carried out using seeds; the material is placed in loose soil with drainage and watered regularly.
Violet is a rather unpretentious plant, and many novice flower growers who want to have these wonderful flowers in their collection ask themselves the question "Is it possible, and if so, how to grow a violet from a leaf?"
This process is not too troublesome, but it requires certain conditions to be met in order for the violet to take good roots and take root in a new place without any problems. For beginner flower growers, experienced amateurs are advised to do this procedure in the spring and summer.
How to grow a violet from a leaf
- The ends of the violet stem should be cut obliquely and the leaves should be placed so that they do not touch the bottom of the cup.
- You need to germinate the leaves in dark opaque cups (for example, from under yogurt), pouring settled or filtered water (not running). Put the glasses in a warm, bright place.
- After the roots appear, the leaf can and should be transplanted into loose soil. It is more convenient to use disposable cups or yogurt cups for this, after making holes for drainage with a hot awl or a large needle.
- On the bottom of the cup, first put a little expanded clay, pieces of foam, sphagnum moss, then pour the soil mixture.
- Having made a small hole in the ground, carefully place a leaf with roots there (no deeper than 1 cm), sprinkle with earth, without tamping and pour settled or filtered warm water.
- Cover the pot with a leaf with plastic wrap or a glass jar.
The cutting is best planted at a 45-degree angle (face up) so that germinated babies (small plants) are not obscured by the leaf.
Common Germination Mistakes
To avoid typical mistakes that beginner gardeners make, check out some of them.
Rooting phase errors
It happens that the brought leaf is a little wilted on the way home. Then, before rooting, it must be dipped in warm water for two hours so that it becomes elastic. After that, with a sterile sharp razor, it is necessary to update the oblique cut, leaving about 3 cm of the handle.
Several cuttings can be placed in an opaque vessel. But make sure they don't touch the bottom. You can stretch a plastic film on top of the jar, in which holes are made for the leaves. But it is preferable to keep the cuttings separately: if one of them rots, you will avoid damage to the others.
For rooting, it is better to take soft water. You can rain or melt, as well as distilled, boiled, settled and well. The notion that boiled water lacks essential nutrients is wrong, as the leaf does not require any nutrition at this stage. For root formation, everything necessary is contained in itself.
You do not need to change the water, you just need to add it as it evaporates. Roots will begin to form in three weeks. You can move on to the landing stage from the moment you reach a length of 1.5-2 cm.
Landing phase errors
When planting cuttings from leaves, the most common mistakes are:
- Very "fat", abundantly fertilized, and also airtight earth.
For safety net, we present the composition of the substrate for saintpaulia: sphagnum (cut marsh moss) - 2 parts; peat (not sour) - 2 parts; rotted leaf ground (preferably from under the linden) - 1 part; coniferous land (preferably pine) - 1 part; garden soil (sifted, without humus) - 1 part; river sand (not fine, medium or coarse) - 1 part; piece of charcoal in each pot.
- Deepening of the cutting when planting by more than 1-1.5 cm. Deep planting makes it difficult for young leaves to germinate. To keep the leaf well at a shallow depth, it is attached with a stick or straw.
- The optimal germination temperature and light regime are not observed. Provide plants with a temperature of about 24-26 degrees and diffused light.
- Drainage is not provided, the water is in a pot, not seeping out. Check for drain holes, do not flood young plantings.
Young people can be separated when they grow 3-5 leaves, and they reach a third of the size of the mother leaf. They are carefully separated and planted separately.
Errors of the stage of seating young saintpaulias
At the stage of seating young Saintpaulias, a typical mistake is choosing too large a pot. As a rule, a plant cannot master a large earthen clod. The roots rot and the plant may die. Young rosettes of Saintpaulia should be planted in pots 4-5 cm in diameter, and only after six months increase the pot to 8 cm.
For young plants (and they can form from 1 to 20 on one leaf), the same earthen substrate is used as for leaf germination. You can only add a little superphosphate - 2 tbsp. spoons on a bucket of earth mixture.
Top dressing is needed only during the formation of buds. The concentration of liquid fertilizers is made 3 times less than indicated by the manufacturer.
Care
We have already written about the care of saintpaulias, their requirements for lighting and watering, as well as the feeding regimen, the materials can be found here.
So, growing saintpaulias from leaf cuttings is very simple, you should follow the recommendations step by step and beware of the errors given. Good luck to you!
Indoor violet is considered a wonderful decoration for any room, which is why this plant is so common. There are a lot of varieties of this flower. Each florist or just an amateur will always be interested in replenishing his collection with a new look. How to plant saintpaulia with seeds and how to breed violets correctly are not easy questions. This may require expert advice. At the same time, growing from a leaflet is quite easy. But how to grow a violet from a leaf so that the flower turns out strong and healthy, and how to plant a violet leaf correctly, we will figure it out together. The method is simple, but it is worth paying attention to some subtleties.
Even a novice grower can choose a leaf for a future plant. First of all, pay attention to the condition of the leaf - it must be healthy in appearance. A dull, sluggish and damaged piece of flower is not suitable for planting.
You should not choose a leaf from the lower tier of the plant, as they are already considered old. Samples that have grown closest to the soil will not work either - they have a chance of being infected. It is best to take leaves from the middle tiers of violets, which are well formed for separation and independent development.
Carefully break off the leaf you like from the plant, taking it to the side. It is best that the violet leg be as long as possible (at least 4 cm), but if it doesn’t work out, don’t be upset, saintpaulia has every chance of developing from a leaf of any size. Next, we cut the leg obliquely, approximately 3 cm. This should be done carefully with a blade or a very sharp knife, never use scissors for these purposes, as they damage the plant tissues and pinch the capillaries.
There are times when it is not possible to choose a sheet on your own: you got it from friends, came by mail, or was on the road for a long time. Most likely, the leaf will lose its former appearance and will be weak for further cultivation. But do not despair, because in order to return it to its previous state, you need to put it in purified water at room temperature and add a couple of potassium permanganate crystals.
Growing from a leaf in water
Growing violets from a leaf in water is a very interesting process, since you can independently observe the appearance of violet roots. The faster the leaf is in the water, the sooner they will appear. Choosing a container is easy, the main thing is to rinse it well. Tinted glass jars are best suited for growing, as pollution is less likely to appear on their walls. If these are not available, then for at home you can simply take ordinary plastic cups.
We place a violet stalk in a container and add boiled water or settled. The leaf itself should not come into contact with water, which is fraught with decay. In order for the roots not to rot, you can add a piece of activated charcoal to the water. Next, we cover our violet with a plastic bag and put it in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. Add liquid periodically, depending on the rate of evaporation. After 2-4 weeks, roots will appear (it all depends). If you start to notice signs of decay at the end of the cutting, then carefully remove the leaf, dry it, cut off the damaged tissue and try again.
Growing from a leaf in the ground
Many flower growers believe that growing violets from a leaf without roots is a more successful method, since the stalk rot is almost impossible, rooting is faster, and such a plant produces many more babies.
Any student can grow a violet with the help of water, but not everyone knows how to land. You can also grow a leaf in a plastic cup or by placing it in a pot - the main thing is that there are holes at the bottom for water to escape. Special soil, which is sold in every flower shop, needs to be diluted with perlite - this is an important component for violets, as it allows the roots to breathe and perfectly absorbs moisture.
We fill the third part of the container with pieces of drainage, and then add. We plant the stalk shallowly, otherwise new leaves will not be able to break through a thick layer of earth. So that the sheet does not stagger, it is worth slightly compacting the top layer of soil, if necessary, you can support it. Do not immediately water the future plant, moisten the maximum by spraying. Next, cover the pot with violet with a bag (to create an artificial greenhouse and preserve moisture).
In this state, the flower is until the appearance of small leaves or children. How long it will take is unknown, but this way the growing process will be successful. In the first week of your planted violets, the leaves may wither - do not take any action, this is a common occurrence. A maximum of two weeks after the appearance of the roots, the leaves will get stronger and regain their former elasticity. Produce planted cuttings once a week, otherwise acidification of the soil will occur. Discard leaf fertilizers so that the roots become stronger faster in search of nutrients. Once every 2-3 days, the planted leaf and the babies that have appeared are given the opportunity to breathe - for this, carefully take the edge of the bag and slightly open it for 10-15 minutes.
In the future, children are separated from the violet leaf and in different pots, but it is advisable to seat them immediately. It is worth separating the children correctly so that each new plant has a couple of leaves and some roots. Separation will be less traumatic for children if the earth is moistened in advance and the separation process occurs with pieces of native soil.
It is recommended to breed these flowers in the warm season, but experienced flower growers plant and branch off shoots at home and in winter. There are no big problems in how to grow a violet from a leaf, and how to plant a violet correctly. Stick to the basic rules of growing, and then you will succeed the first time.
Video "How to grow a violet from a leaf"
From this video you will learn how to plant a violet.
Leaf violet. Easy growing method for beginners
But still I acquired an unusual method for myself violet leaves. It turned out through one popular service.
The girl freely shared her leaves for self-rooting to those receiving this gift.
So I decided to breed a violet in my place, agreed, met.
The girl shared with me a few leaves of violets and a small glass of young shoots of these flowers.
She didn’t say exactly what color the violets would be, explaining this by the fact that different types grow in her house, and she didn’t mark the cut leaves in any way.
In general, what they gave me, I took for my home vegetation. She gave me a chocolate bar as a thank you.
There were three leaves.
And in a small glass with rosettes of violet leaves there were about four.
As I understood later, this one violet gave several so-called points of growth.
So, how to grow a full-fledged plant at home from just one leaf?
My step-by-step steps for growing violets from a leaf
1. Checking the planting material
Leaves for planting should be healthy, preferably without damage and other defects, not wrinkled, beautiful.In my case, these were cut leaves, which were already decently dry at the place of the cut.
2. Preparation for the rooting stage
The cut material, in this case our violet leaf, in my case - as many as three, I cut off a little, i.e., cut off part of the petiole, which had already dried up after being cut from the mother plant.
3. Choice of rooting method: two ways
The first way is to put it in water.Of course, I assumed that a violet leaf can be immediately stuck into a pot of earth.
I was convinced of this by reading certain information on the Internet.
But because of her curiosity, she began to act in a different way of rooting in relation to violet leaves - water.
Many gardeners and flower growers are engaged in rooting of most plants with the help of water.
So I decided to use this method. I put three leaves in the water and added a tablet of activated charcoal in order to prevent the appearance of bad flora and an unpleasant odor.
Having done these steps, I put the leaves in the water so that the petiole always remained in the water, and the leaf itself was out of the water. Since I myself encounter the cultivation of violets for the first time, it was very interesting how long the roots hatch, what strength, structure, quantity, length they are.
Naturally, in order to observe all this, it would be most logical to place the leaves in a container of water.
The second way is to plant in the ground.
Planting a leaf in the ground is not difficult. Just carefully place the cutting in the ground, compact the soil and water as needed.
My observations
Observation of leaves in the water. At first I watched often, checked more often and watched how each leaf behaved, but unfortunately, no changes were observed.When interest subsided a little, the observations narrowed down to the moment of pouring water into a glass. At one fine moment, and this is about 3 weeks later, I began to visually notice that the roots in the form of small white threads still began to appear on the leaves. This fact certainly made me happy. After some time, the roots grew in the water.
I cannot say how much the presence of coal affected the rate of growth and development of the roots, but the roots did grow.
After some time, I found tiny embryos of other violet leaves at the base of the roots, this is already a sure sign that the plant has begun to live its full life and began to develop and grow into a real violet bush.
This circumstance led me to the idea that it was time to plant the plant in the ground.
4. Planting a plant after rooting in water.
We skip this point when landing in the ground.
Preparing for transplanting: pots, soil, drainage
I chose small pots for violets at the initial stages.
For leaflets, at the moment I considered the most acceptable option with the smallest volume - this is a small plastic cup.
It is quite acceptable for a leaflet, there is a place where the entire outlet can grow, and as time passes and as a dense green mass grows, it will be possible to consider the option of a full-fledged transplant into a real flower pot.
It is worth considering that too large a pot for violets is not needed.
For planting violets, I purchased the appropriate land, which is intended for violets and saintpaulias. According to the composition on the label, we can talk about the presence in it of such elements as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. The manufacturer writes that the soil for my violet will be balanced.
We transplant sprouts
Of course, with a full transplant, it is necessary, according to all the rules, to put both drainage and place the seedlings in a certain soil.I did without drainage. I just think that while the plant is too small, and soon it will have to be transplanted again, it will survive the absence of this structure in the container.
Moreover, for all the cups, I always make drainage holes on the bottom.
Planting of leaves went quickly. I just made indentations in the soil layer, and then placed it there as comfortably as possible, I hope, the roots of the plant, covered it with earth.
If the plant has grown into several rosettes by planting a leaf in the ground, then later you can plant them separately.
I had to fiddle with the sockets a little longer, as they had to be separated and then seated separately. But I dealt with that too.
In action, everything was the same - standard procedures: depressions in the soil, transplanting and, if necessary, adding earth to the cup.
We divide the seedlings into sockets, plant them separately. When the green mass appears from the ground, it grows over time and gives already full-fledged peduncles, which will bring the first joy to the owner by the appearance of the first flowers on the violet.
5. Caring for the violet
Care - timely watering. At the same time, it is not worth flooding and allowing the soil to dry out.But the more important point is light mode. Violet should be protected from active sunlight in order to avoid burning the leaves. But at the same time, daylight should be active enough for her.
conclusions
Growing a violet from a single leaf is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. A beginner can handle it just fine.The plant develops quite quickly with minimal care and with the creation of elementary conditions for existence. From the smallest leaf, you can get a beautiful home flower, from which, in turn, you can also cut off a leaf and continue reproduction with it. Also, the plant can give several daughter plants, growing points, which will grow into separate rosettes of leaves.
P.S. (P.S):
After transplanting into a separate container, my largest violet sprout currently has a small peduncle, which, I hope, will soon please with flowering. Purple is already indicated.
Modified varieties of violets (saintpaulia) fell in love with flower growers so much that more and more people are striving to provide them with decent care and reproduction. Lovely flowers can transform any room.
You can make a magnificent collection of saintpaulias, but for this you need to know how to propagate a violet leaf at home.
Indoor violet is a pampered, delicate plant. The appearance of one flower in the apartment entails the breeding of other saintpaulias. You can not buy an adult Saintpaulia in a pot, it is better to figure out how to grow stepchildren from a leaf or its pieces.
If you achieve a certain microclimate, then breed violets all year round. Saintpaulia can be capricious, so you need to choose the right soil, pot, know everything about watering, temperature conditions.
Best time
It is best to apply vegetative propagation in spring or summer. From December to March, the flower is at rest. With the onset of warm days, it wakes up and begins active growth.
For reproduction to be successful, the light must fall on the planted leaves for most of the day. In the winter months, special lamps or phytodevices are used for highlighting.
Suitable humidity level
Saintpaulias love fairly humid air. During the breeding season, humidity is especially important. To maintain the required level, cups with rooting leaves, flower stems or seeds are covered, creating a greenhouse. The most suitable humidity value for rooting is 50-60%.
Suitable temperature
Violets are afraid of sudden temperature fluctuations. Only formed bushes are able to survive cold at +10 ° C and heat up to +35 ° C. For the good development of Saintpaulia, the optimum temperature is + 22 ... 24 ° С. This temperature must be maintained constantly.
Soil mix requirements
Active growth and reproduction of violets requires soil of a certain composition. It should easily pass air, be slightly sour, rather loose. The increased density of the soil from the summer cottage does not allow the use of such land for the propagation of Saintpaulia.
Novice amateur growers choose a substrate from specialized stores. A competent seller will always offer the right option. Experienced flower growers have noticed that sometimes the composition on the package differs from the actual one. They make their own soil mix from the following ingredients, taken equally:
- washed sand;
- slightly acidic peat;
- humus from leaves;
- green moss;
- peat moss;
- charcoal;
- black soil from the garden.
Peat can be added a little more. Charcoal maintains moisture in this composition, adds antibacterial properties to it, loosens the ground, and prevents it from drying out.
Peat moss regulates humidity, the substrate with it does not provoke putrefactive processes. The best land is taken in a mixed forest where spruces, pines, oaks, aspens grow.
Pot selection
Leaves, flower stems, seeds taken for propagation are placed in small containers - no more than 5 cm. Holes are made at the bottom of the cups and expanded clay is covered. When the young shoots of violets outgrow the flowerpots by half, it's time to transplant them into larger pots. The bushes are taken out of the cups along with the substrate, transferred to a new pot, the soil is poured down and on the sides.
Violet roots do not grow deep into, but on the surface of the soil. So they get more heat, air and light. A flowerpot for a stronger plant should not be more than 9 cm in height. Transplanting into too large pots can result in the death of Saintpaulia.
Advice! Violet blooms better in a compact container, and leaves actively develop in a spacious container. The ideal pot is selected three times less than the Saintpaulia rosette. The most suitable for violets are plastic and clay containers.
Several methods of reproduction
Before planting violets, the leaves are rooted in an aqueous solution or soil. If this is not possible, then you can use a sheet fragment. So flower growers expand the range of violets and save plants doomed to death.
Experienced housewives propagate saintpaulias with seeds, shoots, peduncles. It is worth considering all breeding methods step by step.
How to plant violets with leaves: breeding steps
Most often, amateur flower growers use leaves for breeding Saintpaulia. They are rooted either in water or immediately in the ground. The procedure consists of the following steps:
- A suitable leaf is placed in water or soil.
- Separate the kids.
- Transfer young bushes to new pots.
Competent adherence to all stages guarantees the appearance of bright delicate inflorescences.
Selection of suitable sheets
Properly chosen planting base - leaves, shoots, stems - is the key to a positive result. Only a healthy outlet is suitable for cutting leaves. It is impossible to take leaves from the lower tier: they take root poorly and do not give children. Most suitable leaf from the middle tier. It should be elastic, not have any errors.
Important! Violet leaves are often ordered by mail. They become sluggish after forwarding. A solution of potassium permanganate in boiled water will help save them. The leaves are soaked in it for several hours, then part of the stem is cut off from them.
Sheet cutting rules
For work, a sharp knife, scalpel, blade is used. The cut site is treated with an antiseptic. Cut at an angle of 45°. The length of the stem near the leaf should be 4–5 cm.
Rooting a leaf in water
Inexperienced flower growers will not interfere with the instruction how to plant violets with leaves, rooting them in water:
- A suitable container - a plastic cup or a small glass jar - is filled with water at room temperature. It is better to use settled or boiled water. Dissolve an activated charcoal tablet in it.
- The stem is dipped into the liquid by 1 cm.
- The water level is monitored daily and topped up if necessary.
- With the formation of roots (in 2–3 weeks), they are expected to increase to 1 cm.
- Rooted leaves are planted in the ground.
It happens that the stem of the leaf rots in the water. Then the damaged part is cut off, the water is poured out of the glass and refilled.
How to root a leaf in the soil
It is quite popular to root Saintpaulia sheets directly in the soil:
- At the bottom of a small plastic container with holes, some pebbles and crushed foam are poured. Top filled with purchased substrate or self-mixed soil. Make a recess.
- The cut leaf is disinfected with Fitosporin solution: it will protect against the appearance of fungus. A little solution is poured into the well.
- The prepared cutting is deepened into the ground by 1.5 cm, lightly tamped.
- Put the glass in a bright, warm place where there are no drafts.
- To create a kind of greenhouse effect, cover the glass with a plastic bag or glass jar.
Attention! Undemanding varieties of violets take root without shelter.
How to plant baby violets
After 1.5-3 months, the first leaves are expected to appear. As soon as the outlet picks up 4-5 leaves, the children are planted in pots. Such a young plant can reach up to 5 cm in height.
The most suitable pot will be a container with a diameter of 7-8 cm. Expanded clay, foam for drainage are poured into the bottom, special soil for Saintpaulia is added, the pot should be filled with it by 2/3. Then the violet baby is placed in the middle of the container, sprinkled with another portion of soil.
Important! The growing point must be above the ground so that the plant starts up new leaves.
Using sheet fragments
If there is not enough planting material, then you can try to propagate a rare variety with a piece of leaf. It happens that the stalk has rotted, and all that remains is to root the leaf itself. It is cut across so that the parts have at least one or two veins. For such rooting, the upper part of the leaf is more suitable..
The cut parts are dried a little, the sections are treated with ash. Fragments are tightly immersed in the soil, watered. Reproduction by leaf fragments gives many children.
The use of peduncles and shoots
To maximize the preservation of all the signs of a certain variety of Saintpaulia, use the stems of inflorescences, stepchildren. Sometimes only this method helps to get a variety of chimera violets with an unusual color of petals.
With lateral stepchildren, the situation is simple: young rosettes are formed in the axils of the mother bush. They are carefully separated from the parent plant and rooted like leaves. When new leaves appear, the sockets are transplanted to the same place.
Chimera violets are also propagated by flower stalks.. The stem is cut closer to the root, placed in the soil mixture, choosing a flowering or already faded stem. Peduncle with buds is not suitable for rooting. Above it create a greenhouse made of polyethylene. With the advent of the baby, the young rosette is transplanted into a pot.
seed way
First you need to collect the seeds. For pollination, a pair of Saintpaulia parents is needed. When they bloom, they collect pollen from one flower and transfer it to the pistils of another plant. Then wait a few months for the maturation of the seed pods. After they dry, the seeds are harvested.
For sowing, use soil with a high content of perlite.. Before planting, the seeds are sprinkled with sand. A nutrient substrate is added on top, covered with glass. Warmth and special lighting will accelerate seedlings. Seedlings are sprayed with a spray bottle. A pick is carried out when a rosette of 3-4 leaves is formed.
Step-by-step instructions for planting violets
Periodically, Saintpaulia sockets require a transplant. Nuances of the procedure:
- Violet needs to be transplanted every 6-9 months.
- The largest diameter of a pot for a stronger violet is 11 cm. A container with a diameter of 5 cm is enough for a miniature rosette.
- There should be holes at the bottom of the pots, a layer of drainage.
- Before transplanting, the old earth should be shaken off the roots.
- It is important not to forget about regular watering.
- The transplanted plant adapts for two weeks.
The violet bush will fully develop if it is placed on a bright, spacious window sill without drafts and protected from direct sunlight.
How to avoid mistakes when propagating violets
It is better for inexperienced flower growers not to start with capricious Saintpaulia: breeding and care take a lot of effort and attention. It is important to choose the right substrate- moderately acidified and necessarily loose. Overdrying of the soil, cold temperatures, and the rays of the burning midday sun should not be allowed.
Sometimes babies germinate poorly due to irregular and weak watering. Do not dig the root neck too deep into the ground. When rooting planting material, it is important to disinfect the cut points well.. If such nuances are not taken into account, then rooting will slow down, the stem will rot, flowering will slow down, and the plant will not release new leaves for a long time.
Rules for caring for overgrown rosettes
Newly rooted violets differ little from mature plants. Comfortable temperature for them is + 23 ... 24 ° С. You need to monitor the humidity in the room. Young leaves are afraid of water, when watering it is necessary to prevent it from getting on the plant; sprayer cannot be used.
The shoots require frequent, but not plentiful watering under the bush. So that the tender roots do not damage the rot, perlite is added to the ground. Over time, you can apply watering through the pan.
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